If gut health was once something you’d have crossed the street to avoid discussing with anyone bar your GP (at a stretch), it’s defi nitely enjoyed something of a rebranding. And the proof is in your shopping basket, according to Ocado. The online retailer reported a surge in customers searching for fermented foods earlier this year – raw organic sauerkraut is a particular hit, with searches up 188% in January.
“Research on the health benefits of live fermented foods is still relatively new, and more studies are needed to fully understand their potential benefits,” cautions immunologist Dr Jenna Macciochi. “But they are a rich source of beneficial bacteria, which can have several potential health benefi ts when consumed regularly.”
Probiotic-packed fermented foods have well-known benefits for digestive health, but their impact could resonate much further. Eating them regularly could make you better at absorbing certain nutrients – including vitamins B12 and K2, calcium and magnesium, all crucial for bone health. It could also enhance immune function, cut your risk of upper respiratory tract infections and lower inflammation. Meaning you could bounce back from hard workouts more quickly (exercise induces an inflamatory response) and maybe even reduce your risk of chronic disorders like heart disease, diabetes and cancer – although the science is still young and more research is needed.
An added bonus could be better mental health, and who doesn’t need more of that? “Some studies have shown that consuming live fermented foods may help to improve mood and reduce symptoms of anxiety and depression,” Dr Jenna notes.
There are few feelings more satisfying than seeing the bubbles of life in a fresh ferment
But when it comes to the types and numbers of microbes involved – and their potential health benefits – the waters are murkier. Sauerkraut, tempeh, kombucha and sourdough are all fermented foods, meaning that micro-organisms have broken down components in them – like sugars – into other products, changing their taste, texture and aroma. Not only is the variety of fermented foods vast – beer, cheese and chocolate are also part of the family – the microbial content can vary widely between different foods and even different batches of the same food. Dr Jenna notes that most studies so far have focused on dairy products like yogurt and kefir, so the findings may not apply to other fermented foods.
“Any potential health benefits will only be conferred by unpasteurised fermented foods, and many shop-bought versions are pasteurised, which is a great reason to make your own,” says James Read, whose debut book, Of Cabbages & Kimchi, encourages us to welcome more microbes into our kitchen.
James got the bug for fermenting while moonlighting as a pop-up restaurateur. “We wanted to create vegan ‘zombie brains’, and so I tried making cauliflower kimchi. After the fi rst bubbles started popping in that jar, I was off ,” he tells LK.
While they may be zeitgeisty, fermented foods have a long history. “I think they’re often seen as faddy, which is a shame as we’ve been fermenting for at least 8,000 years,” explains James, who cites swerving scurvy (Captain Cook’s crew took three tonnes of sauerkraut on their voyages), space travel (kimchi and kombucha have both left Earth’s atmosphere), and hot sauce-inspired opera (see 1894’s Burlesque Opera of Tabasco) as some of fermentation’s historic highlights.
On the fence about growing your own? Potential health benefits aside fermenting stuff is “incredibly therapeutic” in its own right, says James. “I’d have to say that it falls somewhere between cooking and gardening,” he explains, “because you’re not only making and sharing delicious food, but also bringing something to life.”
They’re often seen as fatty, which is a shame as we’ve been fermenting for at least 8,000 years
Sounds like… something you don’t have time for? Yes, it’s an exercise in delayed gratification but hear us out. “I think ferments are sometimes considered difficult to make,” James notes, “but you can make your own kefir by sticking some kefir grains in milk before you go to work, then straining them out when you get home. It’s around fi ve minutes’ work.”
What do you need? “Not much at all,” says James. “Some jars – tall, narrow mason jars are best, but you can always recycle ones you already have, plus a set of digital scales and some swing-top bottles if you want to make tepache, kombucha or ginger beer.”
Sold? “Start with tepache (a Mexican take on pineapple scrumpy, minus the alcohol), sauerkraut or kefir – whichever sounds most appealing,” James advises. “They’re all really simple to make and very forgiving.”
